Friday, 24 May 2013

'Safety is Six-Sided': Patchwork As Therapy


Hello again, real world. I’ve been away for a while. Not-so-good things have been going on, and because of these, let me tell you about my latest stitch project.

 Unlike the majority of what I would consider my ‘work’, here is something entirely to do with the stitch process itself with any aesthetic value being secondary. In other words, it’s the act of stitch itself, the tactile qualities of holding and working with the fabric....the end result, whatever that may be, is almost irrelevant to the process of producing.


 
Ladies and gentlemen of the jury, clawing myself back from a minor nervous breakdown and a month signed off work, I present to you..... more patchwork as therapy. I fell in love, and my partner went to prison: a bullying campaign against me also reared its ugly head, and I found both my creativity and ability to function in general severely compromised. This project was not so much inspired by awful events as insisted by them: I needed something to calm me down besides Valium, and previous patchwork experiences led me blindly back to the one thing I could start ‘re-engaging with myself’ through. ‘Safety is six sided.’


 
The following is an excerpt from a letter I wrote: If you will, persevere with my rambling, my perspective on this should hopefully prevail......

 My passion for embroidery extends beyond the purely professional, recognising its highly therapeutic and emotionally beneficial nature.  A number of years ago, alongside my professional practice and my subsequent degree, I was diagnosed with clinical depression and as such fell prey to a circumstance of seven shades of hell. It was during this dark period that I was unable to get out of bed, to function normally: trapped in my own ‘mental prison’ of clinical depression and an eating disorder, I could see no light at the end of the tunnel. Gradually, unconsciously constructed self-condemnations of worthlessness gave way to utter personal conviction that there was no hope and as such I became suicidal.

 It was at this point that I discovered patchwork. It became my therapy, a reason not to despise consciousness, and a method with which to start reclaiming my sense of self-worth. Mundane as it sounds, rhythmically preparing paper hexagons with fabric and combining them into the beginnings of a quilt became my highlight of the darkness I was lost adrift in. I would find myself able to engage mentally with an activity that then progressed into long periods of time, hours on end, happily immersed in something other than my own apathy. Patchwork completed for me what Prozac couldn’t, and as my quilt grew, so did I: eventually, I was able to go back to ‘the real world’ and my quilt was displayed at the 2011 NEC Festival of Quilts.

 But what really inspired me to start this project is events of recent months. My partner was in court six weeks ago and sentenced to prison. This event alone, along with a subsequent bullying campaign from those around me and other events prompting a severe emotional fallout, had put me in a bad place yet again. Unable to eat, losing weight, sick with worry, running on no sleep and awake at every hour of the night was showing warning signs of another depressive episode. So somehow, without even thinking about it, I found myself in my studio at 3am beginning another quilt. Just the repetitive, rhythmic action of sewing – of engaging with the fabric, of the tactile qualities, of having something to hold when I was wide awake in an empty bed – helped.  Using the English traditional method of piecing over papers, the back of every piece has a thought or an emotion – mostly about my boyfriend – written into them, thus I am quite literally ‘stitching my thoughts together’.
 

The pieces are a sensible size, 6cms from tip to tip, and it’s extraordinary not to care about the colour arrangement or any such sense of ‘outcome’. Hopefully it’s the first step into re-engaging with my craft, and hopefully something a little less ‘robotic’ and more spontaneously creative should emerge next.....
Urgh. Spilt my guts yet again....
 

 

Wednesday, 27 February 2013

Plastic tubing couching

More or nue, but me being me, I'm still eskewing traditional metal threads and trying something new within the spectrum of 'goldwork'. This time it's the turn of thin plastic tubing as a base thread with which I can then couch over in stranded embroidery cotton.

The red 'escape' measures 5cms by 2cms:


And another interesting use with the transparent plastic is that you can have stitches beneath it, worked directly onto the background fabric, which still show through: this way, part of the background can be given a 'shine' (I think it looks a little like the shadow on the 'A'is underwater). Solid metal threads obviously do not have this potential. And in the right direct light, the plastic really shines, 'illuminating' it.
Blue stitched area 2.5cm by 2.3cms:


The next one was worked onto cotton organza (which is the most transparent fabric I could find). Unfortunately, unlike the organdie I've been sticking to as of late, it's just too fine for this sort of stitch: the slightest pull, the slightest over-tensioning of the stitch as it's worked, and the organza will just rip. I got away with it here due to excessive patience but practically, it could 'run' and spoil far too easily.

But feeling inspired by my persistently patient approach to the sample above, I took an A4 plastic wallet, chopped a section out and started stitching onto that too. It spells out 'nothing' but didn't especially need to be done to completion:



There's some even stranger stuff following shortly in another post.

Saturday, 16 February 2013

Whitework eyelets re-worked

As I've already briefly explained on a previous post, whitework currently has my interest. But before I can start 'creating' anything out of it, I need to fully explore the technique and just what its specific potential holds for me and my work. So I've embarked on a sampling spree to become better acquainted with the technicalities of what works, how to do it and what effects can be achieved. Nothing especially 'final' at this point, more of a space to play....

No white thread on white cotton, that really doesn't inspire me - so surely I should be working with materials that do? Hence the 'less traditional' fabrics I'm embracing (although cotton-a-broder is still my favourite thread of choice.) As for the name 'whitework', it refers more to the traditional techniques encompassed by that name rather than a specified colour scheme.

Black PVC - it's easy enough to sew onto: the shiny surface has a stretchy nylon-like backing, which means the plastic won't rip apart or tear without considerable force. Just don't overly tighten the hoop or the tension will leave a mark.

'Shark fin' -  some form of rubbery synthetic that still has a woven base so, just like the PVC, it can be stitched without ripping. It's a matt surface but it was the closest thing I could find to latex (the craft shop didn't sell that, sadly). The interesting thing is that it doesn't fray. Technically, the oversewing of the cut eyelets is therefore redundant, but as an aesthetic function I still like it - you can introduce other colours, eg red, and even the black oversewn edge stands out slightly.

 
And then I got hold of some black latex.... and proved it is actually possible to stitch on, much to my surprise. The key is patience, to go very gently, and remember that one little rip whilst working it will destroy the entire sample. I'm still not sure as to its stretchability post-embroidering: the sample can stretch a bit, assuming you'd need sufficient 'give' to get a garment on, but I doubt there'd be a great deal of stretch without distorting the stitching.
Nobody else really seems to be embroidering into latex, at least as far as I've seen: probably for good reason, but it's an area I want to consider playing with. How to embellish it, and what to do with it afterwards.

Thursday, 14 February 2013

Anti Valentine's Day

Have been experimenting a lot with the technique of whitework. Now, back at the Royal School of Needlework, we had a whole module in it. Which was a brilliant technical grounding that I now consider absolutely essential to have done.

But I don't particularly find white thread on white fabric very inspiring. The techniques, yes: broderie anglaise, cut and oversewn eyelets, trailing lines .... But producing traditional tablecloths and suchlike? Not so.

I've been compiling a whole book of samples entitled 'Whitework Gone Wierd'. In this I'm using all the traditional techniques but on things like latex (I do love my latex) and transparent PVC. Partly for the simple reason of whether or not it's technically feasible, and partly because it's something new I've not really seen before. Text still features a large amount in my current practice, alongside the corporate logos I'm still completing in goldwork, and seeing that it's currently Feb 14th..... happy Anti-Valentine's Day:



Worked on cotton organdie in the technique of trailing - a form of couching where the entire of the base thread is covered with the oversewing one on top. The black letters are about half a cm tall and the red ones about 2cms tall.

Wednesday, 23 January 2013

Goldwork Rizla logo WIP

Still working along the theme of commercial / corporate logos, the next to fall prey to my stitch curiosity is the Rizla cigarette paper. I started it last month, thinking: 'I'm fed up with Christmas. Let's do something totally unfestive.'

It took longer than average because of all the solid blue area - yes, that all had to be filled in with adjacent rows of stitches, close enough together to stop the gold showing through underneath, and all in one strand of embroidery cotton (any thicker would have covered ground quicker but been bulkier.) Patience perciveres:



However, in the last I don't know how long, Rizla themselves decided to relaunch the design of all their papers - meaning that the version I've started is technically out of date  now. The text slopes the other way, the drop shadow is on entirely the wrong side, and most of all -  the precise blue has changed. Gone is that lovely Mediterranean-pool blue to be replaced with something darker and duller (my camera doesn't really do it justice but trust me.) It's strange how you only really notice such things when you've been staring at something for a disproportionately higher than average amount of you time.....


Tuesday, 22 January 2013

Hanging By A Thread's blog is back

Apologies for the delay. I have been taking some time out to readjust etc and can now say I am back with new vigour. For those unaware, I have moved to Brighton, have my own studio and am exceedingly excited about the future potential of my (relatively) new set-up.

Hanging By A Thread has left university and is now 'out there' in the 'real world' as an independent and unique embroidery practitioner, trailing a large debt but with equal determination to make this career a success.

Things inspiring me at the moment:

1. Corporate logos - especially the Rizzla cigarette paper
2. The Goldwork technique of or nue
3. Latex
4. Traditional whitework broderie-anglaise worked onto said latex
5. The skull on my shelf
6. Experimentation with French seams
7. The illustrative potential of stitch
8. Tubes of toothpaste
9. The Golden Syrup tin
10. Plans for my next tattoo

Seemingly ecclectic? Things will make sense. (Possibly.)  Pictures and the contents of my innermost creative mind to follow shortly.

Thursday, 13 September 2012

Exhibition Collaboration: Maggs bookshop

A short while ago I collaborated with embroidery artist James Hunting to help produce an artwork to be exhibited in Maggs Bros bookshop, London.

My contribution to the work was the three-diemensional fluffy roses worked in a technique called 'Berlin Wool Work':



James Hunting
Exploring the dichotomy of Victorian exploration and repression through the layering of stitch, a great nineteenth century occupation. Volumes by the explorer Sir Richard Burton will be constrained and suffocated by an over-layer of Berlin woolwork – a technique considered daring and vibrant by theVictorians, but now vulgar and colour saturated.


Maggs beneath the Covers

Works to be displayed alongside the rare books and manuscripts that inspired them
 
21st September - 21st December 2012 Maggs Bros Ltd, 50 Berkeley Square, London W1J 5BA

Twelve artists have been commissioned to create works inspired by books or manuscripts from Maggs An exciting new Arts Council England sponsored project, Maggs beneath the Covers responds to rare and unique publications not normally available for public view. The collection will explore the interface between craft and fine art practice. It includes a ‘food-belt-rope-ladder' inspired by Jonathan Swift’s Gulliver’s Travels, and a sculpture of Elizabeth Barrett and Robert Browningon their balcony at Casa Guidi, recreated from prints of the literary couple and their letters.
It is an unprecedented opportunity for artists to work with unusual and rare books, explore a rich seam of heritage and offer the public a glimpse of previously unseen areas of Maggs's historic Georgian buildings.